Leaving Venice and crossing the Ponte della Libertà, the bridge that crosses the lagoon of La Serenissima to Domini di Terraferma, my first impressions are not promising, as I pass the giant refineries of the mainland’s petrochemical industry, then the skeleton of a gigantic cruise ship under construction in vast naval shipyards. But 20 minutes later, when my bus reaches the winding banks of the Naviglio del Brenta, the last stretch of the mighty Brenta River that engineers made “navigable” like a canal in the 16th century, lush countryside suddenly replaces the built-up suburbs.
This idyllic rural paradise, known as the Riviera del Brenta, was where Venice’s wealthy nobles built palatial waterside retreats to escape the heat and noisy crowds of the city. Magnificent villas emerged with gardens designed by Antonio Palladio and his protégés, and were decorated with magnificent frescoes by the likes of Giovanni Tiepolo.
Today, the Riviera is experiencing a renaissance and slowly evolving into an eco-destination, with more travellers choosing to base themselves here, where affordable accommodations range from intimate campsites to rustic agriturismos, family-run B&Bs to luxurious, restored villas, to avoid the daily tourist invasion of Venice. Stretching for 25 miles from Stra, the entire Riviera is connected by the reliable 53E bus, just outside Padua, and I booked a waterside hideaway for a lazy weekend of walking, cycling and sailing.
The bus stops just outside the pretty town of Dolo, about halfway along the Riviera, and it’s a pleasant 25-minute walk to Dimora Naviglio (doubles from €96). Dimora Naviglio is a small 18th-century workers’ cottage right on the water’s edge. It’s the home of Gianluca Maggiori, who created three guest rooms in 2017. Gianluca, a Venetian, is on a mission to persuade tourists to discover a new world of charm on the Riviera del Brenta. He runs his own travel and bike rental company, and B&B guests get a bike to use during their stay.
Behind the facades of stately villas were working farms and vineyards whose produce was transported to Venice by barge
Gianluca tells me: “The guests who left this morning are typical of the new type of travellers we see here. They didn’t want to go through all the hassle of visiting Venice, the crowds and now the entrance tickets. They came here to discover our countryside, the unspoilt surroundings, the cultural history of the riverside villas and the traditional Veneto cuisine and wines served in our village. osteri.”
Gianluca is a mine of information and tips even when you first set foot in Dolo. At the end of the road is the little-known 16th-century Villa Badoer Fattoretto, whose owner has created a fascinating museum depicting daily farming life here; behind the facades of stately villas were working farms and vineyards whose produce was transported to Venice by barge. Next door is a farmers’ cooperative called Cantina Riviera del Brenta, where you can’t help but stock up on artisanal sausages, honey and cheeses, and a litre of local wine from the tap.
Stretching along both banks of the Brenta, the ancient port of Dolo is a labyrinth of locks and bridges, a traditional boatyard and a beautifully preserved mill, unchanged since Canaletto immortalised the landscape around 1730. The mill is now a stylish enoteca and while it’s not the cheapest place in town, it’s a unique place to have a glass of prosecco.
Wherever I stop along the Brenta, there is a bustle on the water: locals stand like Venetians and row their gondola-like boats.
For dinner, Gianluca recommends the waterside Osteria da Caronte, where dishes such as spaghetti topped with lagoon mussels (€12) and tender squid cooked in its own black ink (€15) have been served for more than a century.
From the B&B, a gentle five-mile riverside bike ride leads to the Stra, where the magnificent Villa Pisani is the jewel in the crown of the Brenta Riviera. It features a breathtaking Tiepolo ceiling fresco whose wispy clouds transport you far away, as well as ornamental pools, gardens and even a labyrinth. It’s magnificent and just down the road. I was even more impressed by Villa Foscarini Rossi, home to the Rossi family’s Shoe Museum, one of the many old artisan businesses along the Brenta. Today, it’s owned by global luxury brand LMVH, which also produces Dior accessories nearby, although its 1,500-shoe collection showcases Lacroix, YSL, Pucci and Fendi. Behind the villa, a large old farmhouse, barchessaOnce used for storing grain and wine barrels, but still decorated with frescoes, the soaring entrance hall is now popular for weddings and baptisms.
Wherever I stop along the Brenta, there is activity on the water: locals standing up to row their gondola-like boats in the Venetian style, young enthusiasts quietly cruising on paddleboards, rowboats, canoes and private boats. At the Stra, a plate of delicious Chicks (Venetian tapas) At the sporty Cicloosteria with Giacomo Bozzolan, who takes tourists on the PinnaGialla eco-kayak tour. “I didn’t want to just rent our kayaks and let people explore on their own,” he says. “So the 90-minute tour is led by myself or one of our guides, explaining the natural habitat, the history of the villas, the flora and fauna, the historical agricultural activities here. It’s all seen from the water, which gives a unique perspective.”
After passing the picturesque village of Mira and the magnificent Villa Widmann, I make a final stop at the other Riviera favourite, Villa Foscari, better known as La Malcontenta. This is a much more minimalist, almost grandiose masterpiece built by Palladio as a summer retreat for the Foscari family. And the stars of the show are hidden inside, a series of striking 16th-century frescoes and a striking contemporary sculpture created 450 years later by architect Zaha Hadid.
From Malcontenta, a 10-minute bus ride through the wetlands takes me back to the lagoon, while vaporetto number 16 from Fusina crosses the water to Venice. Not in royal style Burchiello Boats that took Venetian nobles to and from the riviera, but also a slow and peaceful return to the hustle and bustle of La Serenissima.