London Fashion Week, which celebrated its 40th anniversary this year with all the glitz, froth and fizz you’d expect, has come to an end after five days of remote locations, A-list faces and plenty of new clothes. The anniversary event kicked off at LFW in February, but since then the already grim landscape for many independent businesses has only gotten worse. MatchesFashion, the supplier and lifeblood of many of London’s top stars, has gone bankrupt and putting on a show for this spring/summer 2025 season has been a tall order for anyone.
Despite a handful of favorites missing (Molly Goddard, Conner Ives and Dilara Findikoglu all passed; David Koma dropped out as show day approached), the mood among the contingent was one of resilience. “We will not be ignored or overlooked in London,” Harris Reed said after the LFW opening show on Thursday. His followers joined in the rallying cry.
Adding to the sense of hope, Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, said the Labour Government appeared more determined to help than previous occupants of No 10. The BFC held a Downing Street party yesterday, with Rush promising to “introduce the industry’s priorities to the new Government”. This came after Sir Keir Starmer’s wife Victoria made her front-row debut at Edeline Lee earlier that day. So London continues to fight back, as it has for four decades. Here’s everything you may have missed:
These are glitter braids
Glittery jumpers? Not just for work Christmas parties. So says Irish designer Simone Rocha, who took over the Old Bailey courthouse for a dazzling collection on Sunday. Rosewood pink and black glittery jumpers were paired with matching cropped trousers, skinny knee-high embellished socks and Rocha’s sky-high Crocs (a collaboration that debuted in April this year). Tove, the brand founded by Camille Perry and Holly Wright in 2019, also went a little sparkly up top in its more pared-back show for smart, sensible dressers at Senate House. The gold-studded top was paired with a cream crinkle midi skirt and sandals for a more understated look.
Public school chic is back
Fees may have gone up for private schools, but all the extra glimpses of Eton seem to have been reflected in a number of mood boards this season. One of these (more on the nose comment) came from Kent & Curwen, which has been relaunched this season under Daniel Kearns. Called School, it began with a range of uniforms – ties, jackets, even graduation-day-style shirts printed with the scribbles of old friends. There were also notes on the SS Daley, where floor-length, checked skirts were reminiscent of Marlborough College. Some of the best tailored formal wear came from Erdem, who worked with Sextons on Savile Row to make suits that paid homage to Radclyffe Hall’s genderless lesbian novel The Well of Loneliness.
Funny little bags attract attention
Whimsical bags made for easy relaxation—and these instant icebreakers are the ultimate party companion. This season’s best picks include pink and black ducks that you can grab with one fist, while JW Anderson doubled down on the “loafer bag” (with loafer details, of course) that she first showed in June. Cool-girl It brand Chopova Lowena, known for its carabiner kilts, went all-in with white leather bags made in collaboration with Hellmann’s mayonnaise. Yep, they came with harnesses for mayo jars and spoons.
Lower your high heels
The chicest shoes—both on the runway and in the street style set—were all flats, so the message was clear: Keep your heels in dust bags. Standouts came from Erdem, who rocked eye-catching metallic black and silver loafers with a big tassel on top, and Simone Rocha, who made the case for the continuation of the ballet flats trend by sending out rubber-soled styles with gorgeously dramatic tutus. Roksanda, which recently launched a collaboration with FitFlop, teamed up with the brand again to make shockingly ombre, puffy flip-flops. And at JW Anderson, there was a lot of fuss around a new boot concept: a bendable ankle boot that slung in the front and “fell crookedly at the ankles.”
Bermuda short film lives on
The last few months could be called the summer of shorts, with a move away from the messy short look and towards the ever-chic Bermuda short suit. Emilia Wickstead made her case in an all-white dress. But perhaps the most appealing were the SSDaleys, paired with a white lace detail, a dog-patterned knit sweater or a white shirt with a turn-up collar. Very Hamptons.
It was Debra Shaw’s season
LFW is in its 40th year, and some faces have stayed the same. ’90s model Debra Shaw, known for her turn on Alexander McQueen’s runways, has been a big hit this season. She walked for Tove and closed Ahluwalia’s show at Church House, next to Westminster Abbey, in a bright orange patterned midi and a pearl harness in collaboration with Pandora (in the title image). “She’s an iconic woman. When I grew up looking at fashion magazines at home, it was always her,” said designer Priya Ahluwalia. Other model highlights included Edie Campbell opening her 16Arlington collection and US model Alex Consani, who became the first transgender woman to be nominated for Model of the Year at the Fashion Awards in December, walking for Simone Rocha.
Several awards for body diversity
There were a few self-confidence-boosting moments of body diversity on the runway — not just size inclusivity, but also age diversity, as Chopova Lowena, cast by Brazilian designers Karoline Vitto and Sarah Small, was a big part of the show. After many shows, editorial gossip revolved around models reverting to previous beauty standards. Along with some of the big houses, the culprits included up-and-comers who were making their first independent shows this season.
Opposition politics was fierce
SS25 is set to be a vintage season for celebrity sightings, as it became clear on Friday afternoon, when Harry Styles filled the popstar-sized gap next to Dame Anna Wintour at SSDaley. In a modern-cut, navy Daley suit and distressed trainers, he cackled gleefully with the editor-in-chief of Vogue, who strutted down the catwalk at the Royal Academy of Arts wearing a Kamala Harris scarf. Styles also bought a minority stake in his company this January.
Everyone was wondering who could top this one… Edeline Lee looked her best early on Monday as Victoria Starmer arrived to support her in a polka dot outfit.
Front image from left to right: Tove, Karoline Vitto, Simone Rocha, JW Anderson, SSDaley, Ahluwalia and Erdem