Trains and wine make natural partners, whether it’s a glass of fresh white wine after a leisurely lunch in a restaurant carriage while touring the Alps, or a railway route through a region famous for its fine wines. Many of Europe’s most valuable wine regions lend themselves naturally to exploration by rail.
For example, take the train from Porto’s São Bento station to Pocinho for beautiful views of the estates that supported the port’s trade. Other classic European wine regions where trains pass through vineyards include Tokay in Hungary, Germany’s Moselle valley, Spain’s Ebro valley (for fine Rioja) and Switzerland’s Lavaux region, where a great raw white made from Chasselas grapes even plays the railway connection taking. : The classy Dézaley of the Massy family is called Chemin de Fer.
Northern from Avignon to Valence
It’s a tempting rail-wine connection that brought me to Avignon on a humid spring day to explore the Rhône valley. There are very few travelers around. Avignon Central train station looks very nice with its yellow and white walls. This is the starting point for regular slow trains to Lyon (two and a half hour journey). This regional rail line once carried large express trains, but no longer does. TGVs run north towards Paris on a high-speed line that runs well east of the Rhône valley. Only regional trains follow the old valley route, taking roll calls of the major appellations stretching on both sides of the Rhône, while following the railway above Avignon. The railway passes through Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the Hermitage; Later in the journey there are beautiful views across the river towards Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie.
Relating to: Rail route of the month: cheese, chocolate and a magical journey to Gruyères, Switzerland
Leaving Avignon Center on the blue-white train to Lyon, there are views of the city’s ancient walls on the left, then we cross the Crillon Canal. We had barely left the suburb of Avignon when we stopped at a station called Sorgues-Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There isn’t a vine in sight, but after a few minutes the distinctive low hill, home to Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s finest vineyards, can be seen to the west; On the other side of the railway, the rugged Provençal countryside stretches eastward. The Vacqueyras wine region and, in the distance, the mountainous region around Gigondas and Beaumes de Venise, the latter famous for its aromatic Muscat.
Our train turns slightly west to serve Orange, then we have our first real encounter with the main channel of the Rhône River. Not everything is beautiful; We pass cement factories, abandoned car graveyards and nuclear power plants.
Viognier brings the expectation of a dazzling perfume of orange blossom, apricot and almond.
Halfway through my journey, I stop for lunch in Valence, where the elegant design of the Valence Ville train station recalls the architectural style of the Grand Trianon at Versailles. I know this route well and a stop in Valence is mandatory in both directions. It is the first town from the north to embody the energetic vibrancy of France’s fragrant south, and by heading north you get the chance to bid on the south. farewell. And embrace the famous vineyards ahead.
Beyond Valence, the valley edges draw closer and the countryside, now slightly greener, is home to vineyards from which come strong red wines made from the Syrah grape and many rich white wines, the best of which reflect the finesse of three contrasting grapes: Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. The latter brings the possibility of a heady perfume of orange blossom, apricot and almond.
Northern Rhône vineyards
Leaving Valence, there is a view across the Rhône to Cornas, famous for its assertive, peppery reds. Then we cross the Isère River and soon pass by the famous vineyards. Signs mark valuable parcels of land owned by famous winemakers such as Chave, Chapoutier and Jaboulet.
There is a full-length view of a chapel on a hillside above the railway. Not just any chapel, but the chapel that dominates a parcel of land in the Hermitage known as La Chapelle and is associated with revered red wines that evolve gently over decades in the bottle.
On the left, the slowly flowing waters of the Rhône, and on the right, gentle slopes covered with vineyards of the Crozes-Hermitage appellation. Across the river is Saint-Joseph. But the best is yet to come. For those who love Viognier grapes, of which I am one, the pinnacle of this journey is Condrieu and Chateau-Grillet. As we approach Saint-Clair-Les Roches station, where I spent the night at Hotel Bellevue, the steep slopes of both appellations can be seen on the other side of the river (doubles from €115, room only).
It won’t win any awards for its architectural ambition, but the hotel’s many redeeming qualities include, as the name suggests, a beautiful view of the Rhône, good food, and access to the Condrieu vineyards on the west bank via a bridge over the river.
“We call it Guigalville,” says the hotel waiter, pointing to the vineyards on the river, referring to the family that has done so much to promote the wines of Condrieu and its neighboring Côte-Rôtie. The next day, I take a local bus to Ampuis to visit the Guigal estate and taste local wines.
Condrieu is a star with its perfect balance of acidity and fruit. Then we return to Saint-Clair and take the train north of the valley to Lyon. Across the river there is a tantalizing view of the turreted Château d’Ampuis, home of the Guigal family. Our train stops in Vienne, a riverside town famous for its Roman ruins. We then race non-stop to Lyon, a 20-minute hop through Seyssuel, where ambitious young winemakers are buying land amid rumors that their wines can offer all the finesse of Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie.
The last of the vineyards are now gone and we enter Lyon, passing factories, oil refineries, power plants and sewage plants. I note that the train I took continues past Lyon towards Mâcon, offering the option of extending my wine tour north to include Beaujolais and the southernmost part of Mâconnais.
I’m tempted, but the Swiss whites beckon, so I land in Lyon and make my way to the Lavaux region (Lac Léman) on the north bank of Lake Geneva, where I have a date with a glass of Luc Massy’s big cruiser, Dézaley Chemin de Fer.
Travel details
There are 11 direct regional trains from Avignon Center to Lyon every weekday. The service is less frequent on weekends, with nine direct trains on Saturdays and seven on Sundays. One-way fare from Avignon Center via the Rhône valley to Lyon Part Dieu is €40.70. Buy in advance at the station before departure or through Rail Europe for £36 (tickets priced in sterling no longer carry a booking fee).
Nicky Gardner lives in Berlin. He is co-author of Europe by Rail: The Definitive Guide (Secret Europe, £18.99). To support the Guardian and Observer, order your copy of the 17th edition at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.