“It definitely wins the prize for confusing spellings,” says the 10-year-old as we walk through Snowdonia towards our hotel. He’s right, as always. Penmaenuchaf (Pen-mine-i-chav) is a large old stone hotel located in the hills beyond picturesque Dolgellau (dol-geth-ai), near the market town of Machynlleth (Ma-hunt-leth).
I understand? Honestly, it’s worth getting your tongue around it. This area is my family’s favorite part of Wales. This place is truly magical; An untamed, mountainous land full of myths and legends where Welsh princes fought and Mabinogion – dragons attacked along with giants and wizards.
This fierce independence is still deeply rooted in the soil. Machynlleth has fabulous shops, a world-class comedy festival and the strikingly named MOMA Machynlleth art gallery. Dolgellau is even more beautiful; The perfect place to fill a picnic basket before climbing Cadair Idris, one of Snowdonia’s highest mountains; It’s complete with waterfalls and a swimmable glacial lake, Llyn Cau (the bottomless home of a monster according to legend), that can be climbed by strong children.
Penmaenuchaf sits at the foot of the mountain, and spelling isn’t the only prize it competes for. It has a strong claim to the title of Wales’ best hotel rooms. Wales is full of wonders. But – and here I am risking a Snowdonia-sized mountain of angry letters, mainly from my own Welsh family – not many magnificent hotels have traditionally been at the top of this list. Penmaenuchaf may well change that.
Opening the oak front doors feels like stepping into a large family home; Sepia family photos and letters are framed on the walls, stained glass windows flicker with light from crackling fires, plaid sofas tempt from cozy living rooms. The bar is the cutest stool I’ve ever seen; It’s just a room for four or five people that houses three times as much whiskey. A spacious oak-paneled drawing room overlooks 19th-century terraced gardens that meander towards wild paths or slope towards the dizzyingly swollen Mawddach Estuary. You can walk, bike, fish, explore the coast, or just sit with a book and watch the air race across the mountains for days.
Penmaenuchaf was purchased in 2022 by Neil and Zoe Kedward, owners of Pembrokeshire’s cult Grove of Narberth hotel. A slow and delicate renovation is underway. The first phase, focusing on the four bedrooms right at the top of the hotel, is finished and oh my god, they’re like the opposite of Narnia. Instead of unexpectedly moving from the drab bedroom to the woodland fairyland, you step inside from the wild world outside, climb the stairs and find yourself in a wonderland of witty wallpapers, warm colors and beautiful fabrics.
Luckily, these new rooms are perfect for families too. Each couple has their own separate staircase. Get two and virtually have your own private apartment. The boys claim Eyri is a rose-coloured paradise, with vaulted ceilings, green gingham curtains, a round bathtub and a wine-red velvet headboard.
Our Mawddach room, across from the landing, is a blue study. Small wallpaper in a sloping living room. It breaks into a bedroom with luxurious lining, striped curtains, duck egg paneling, duvets and Welsh antiques. The marble bathroom of dreams. Even children (who often can’t see anything except whether there is a TV) are fascinated. The transformation is the work of superstar designer Nicola Harding, who is also responsible for London’s super-luxe Beaverbrook Townhouse. Often you can follow the connection in the joyful embrace of texture, hue and pattern.
The disadvantages of the other 12 bedrooms are more conservative for now. A wave of Harding’s magic wand could do the trick in the dining room. Kedwards instead funneled the money into the kitchen; here head chef Thomas Hine can now realize his full potential. For dinner, one wonderful meal after another arrives; each one is cosmopolitan but based on local production and tradition, flawless but never pretentious.
Service is also a joy; the formality and friendliness of the staff switching seamlessly between Welsh and English. A few extremely famous faces dine separately on the same night as us, allowed to settle into blissful utter anonymity.
Meanwhile, the newborn baby at his parents’ table and the two of us are treated with exactly the same seriousness and respect. Children – they are not stupid – know the rare splendor of this place. Of course, there are no family-friendly facilities. There is no pool, kids club or playground. But the outside world is a much bigger and crazier adventure. And on a winter night, the history and character of the world inside also creates a powerful magic. We all want to return as soon as possible.
Fundamentals
A family of four can book two rooms, both B&B, from £460 at Penmaenuchaf (01341 212121; penmaenuchaf.co.uk). A Z-Bed can also be placed in some rooms.