I wandered through a labyrinth of black basalt, my fingertips tracing walls covered in electric green lichen, my boots squeaking on rubble as dark as coal. The landscape on Pico, one of the nine islands that make up the Azores, has become increasingly appealing to curious hikers looking to delve into the past of an otherworldly, stark and remote North Atlantic archipelago.
It is often important to walk in single file; Pico’s ancient roads had to be just wide enough to move cattle to pasture or for mules and ox carts laden with goods to move between the wave-lashed coast and remote communities in its volcanic interior. I followed the waving ponytail of Futurismo Azores Adventures guide Inês Neto through the sea mist. His voice receded on the salty breeze: “The history of this island can actually be summed up in two ‘Ws’: winemaking and whaling. And when you go for a walk here, you actually go back in time. “This is the best way to understand what life was like for the first settlers.”
Our five-mile Vinhas da Criação Velha hike was proof of this; We were passing through the honeycomb of dry stone walls along the northern and eastern edges of Pico. Perhaps they are the strangest vineyards in the world. We’re living a rough life here in the late 15’sThis In the 16th century, about 1,600 kilometers from mainland Europe, the first Portuguese planted vines directly into volcanic rock crevices and created these stone structures called currais to protect the grapes from the weather.
“Pico’s currai is one of humanity’s greatest structures; Filipe Rocha, co-founder of the Azores Wine Company, which has restored more than 100 hectares of these Unesco-listed vineyards, said that if it is extended, they will circle the equator twice. A sleek, low-rise structure made of concrete and glass – housing a winery, fine restaurants and hotel – this is the most luxurious place on the island after a day’s hiking and the most luxurious place to sample distinctive volcanic whites. Mineral, salty and slightly smoky, these colors are reminiscent of Thomas Jefferson and Tsar Alexander II of Russia. He decorated the cellars of Nicholas II.
The next day, as Inês and I set out for the coastline from Santana to Lajido, she pointed out further evidence of Pico’s brave ancestors. “We call these rola-pipa,” he pointed to deep scars carved into the basalt. “Where wine barrels are rolled into boats.” Vigia (watchtowers used by whalers before the Azores’ resident sperm whale pods were protected) sit atop jagged cliffs, while coastal tidal wells reveal how the islanders collected rainwater for drinking.
Lava fields (lajido in Portuguese) wind the clock even further back, deeper into time. The volcanic eruptions that formed this dramatic landscape are clearly visible in the swirling, ridged patterns of jet-black rock and the towering, ubiquitous cone of Pico Mountain, as if the magma had recently cooled. Cutting through the rugged interior and initially providing a lifeline between villages on the north and south coasts, the Donkey Way (O Caminho dos Burros) passes through high-altitude crater lakes called calderas, surrounded by endemic varieties of juniper and blueberry. sculptural, yellow-blooming Mediterranean spurges or old-growth laurissilva forests.
The hiking trails are by no means Pico’s preserve; Six of its Azorean neighbors offer multi-day “grand routes” ranging from 20-plus miles, as well as easier but equally scenic hikes, whether looping among hot springs or wandering along hydrangea-filled rural roads past curious cattle. Across the archipelago, around 80 trade and pilgrimage routes have been restored by the Trails of the Azores in recent years, with distinctive red and yellow signs clearly marking the way. If there was ever a time to visit these historic routes to walk them and uncover their remote charms, it is definitely now.
Fundamentals
Estella Shardlow was a guest of Visit Azores (00 351 296 288 082; visitazores.com) and Azores Wine Company (00 351 918 266 989; antoniomacanita.com). Car rental was provided by Ilha Verde (00 351 296 304 891; ilhaverde.com) and excursions were provided by Futurismo Azores Adventures (00 351 296 628 522; futurismo.pt). Direct flights from London to Ponta Delgada are operated by British Airways (May-September; ba.com) and Azores Airlines (June-September; azoresairlines.pt).
Five more excellent ways to walk in the Azores
Mata Do Canário, Sao Miguel
The twin lakes of Sete Cidades have become the poster child of the Azores. Filled with stunning, two-toned waters (one sapphire, the other emerald) it is the result of a volcano collapse some 22,000 years ago. Although local legend offers a more romantic explanation: A pair of star-crossed lovers, a blue-eyed princess and a green-eyed shepherd, filled the caldera with tears. Despite its otherworldly appearance, this natural wonder is just a 15-minute drive from Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores.
One option is to complete the entire 20.1 km lake tour Route Circular da Lagoa das Sete Cidades. But the smarter choice (i.e., getting the best view in less time) is to take the trail from the Miradouro da Boca do Inferno viewpoint and travel about seven miles counterclockwise around the edge of Lagoa Azul, arriving at the village of Sete Cidades. After the hike, reward yourself with a pineapple wine tasting at Herdade do Ananás, a working plantation-meets-boutique hotel in Ponta Delgagda, and treat your hike-weary muscles with an ayurvedic massage and hot tub; all of which are located in the facility’s greenhouses. Herdade do Ananas (00 351 919 293 000; herdadedoananas.com) doubles from £77 per night.
Misterios Negros, Terceira
Mistérios Negros offers a spiritual journey in the heart of the island, with its old-growth forests and mist-covered lagoons. It begins with a path surrounded by heather and Azorean blueberries, leading to Lagoinhas do Vale Fundo. This trio of small lakes is a twitch paradise, attracting migrating gulls and herons.
The next part bears the traces of the volcanic eruption of 1761: the landscape full of lava hills, plants that have not yet taken over the steep rock faces. Puzzled Portuguese settlers called these lava formations Mistérios Negros, meaning Dark Mysteries. Lift your eyes to the central massif of Pico Gordo for more evidence of Terceira’s fiery formation, or dive into the 10,000-foot-long lava tunnel of Gruta do Natal (Christmas Cave) as you complete the three-mile loop. Caparica Azores Ecolodge (00 351 295 989 100; caparica-ecolodge.com) doubles from £80 per night.
Faja Grande to Ponta Delgada, Flores
Following the northwestern flank of the island, this strenuous route takes in steep sea views from historic bridleways. The terracotta-roofed houses of Faja Grande drop down as the rocky path rises, revealing fields of heather, grazing cattle and hydrangea bushes on the landward side, while across the water the neighboring island of Corvo is revealed. Highlights along the way include Albernaz, Europe’s westernmost lighthouse, and the waterfalls of Poço do Bacalhau for a refreshing dip on hot days.
A close rival for Flores’ best hike is Rocha dos Bordões, where a series of vertical basalt columns rise 20 meters above the ground; Picture a huge pipe organ and you’ll get the idea. White Exclusive Villas (00 351 296 249 153; whiteazores.com) has Junior suites from £110 per night.
Lapa to Norte, Santa Maria
Geologically the oldest of the Azores, small Santa Maria, which was still the first settlement, was called the ‘Yellow Island’; some say it because of its microclimate (sunnier and drier than the neighboring archipelago), others say it because of the wide range of flowers blooming on it. its slopes. But the name suits equally well champagne-coloured beaches like São Lourenço.
This bay makes a natural stop on the 10-mile hike north from Lapa to Norte, arguably the most challenging part of the Great Santa Maria Route (a five-day circumnavigation of the island for those who want to get it all done). Vineyards, cliff-top miradouros (lookout points) and time capsule villages like Santo Espirito. A glimpse of the Norte Lighthouse signals that you’re on your way home, before heading inland across the meadows towards Norte. Ilha a Pé (00 351 964 474 768, ilhape.com) runs a number of walking retreats along the Santa Maria Grand Route, from £137 for four nights.
Lagoa do Fogo to Cascata das Lombadas, São Miguel
The “Lake of Fire” may sound awesome, but actually the only scary thing about this place is the sulfurous pong that occasionally emits from the geothermal vents on its shores. An easy hiking trail circles these tranquil topaz waters, while the Lombadas Valley nature reserve on the north shore contains a honeycomb of more challenging trails. The best is Cascata das Lombadas; Climb the wooden stairs through lush, dripping vegetation for rewarding views of this deep stream.
Food for hikers in these regions comes in the form of hearty, one-pot cozido cooked in the earth’s geothermal heat; Try it at Restaurant À Terra in the nearby spa town of Furnas. Octant Furnas (00 351 296 249 200; furnas.octanthotels.com) has double occupancy from £105 per night.