What is the ‘morning flake’ skincare routine and does it have any benefits?

By | August 6, 2024

TikTok isn’t short on skincare trends. Some are good (Skin HIIT and face icing). Some are not so good (Pore vacuuming). Now a dermatologist has weighed in on the latest viral craze that promises to up your skin’s A-game — the ‘morning exfoliation.’

Don’t worry, this trend doesn’t involve any actual skin shedding or peeling. Instead, it’s “morning shedding”, which is when people apply a bunch of skincare products and treatments before bed and then remove or shed them in the morning.

The app has already racked up more than 30 million views on the video-sharing platform and seen a 36% increase in Google searches in the last week alone, with advocates praising it for the radiant improvement it can provide to skin and hair.

While some fans of the #morningshed trend opt for a simple, classic, put-on-take-off routine that includes a lip or face mask, others take a maximalist approach, using products like night cream, eye masks, mouth patches, and chin straps to create an interesting pre-bedtime look.

But aesthetics aside, some experts question the perceived benefits and risks of this regimen and ask whether it’s really safe to apply so many products and procedures to your skin.

Skincare expert and co-founder of Harley Street Skin Clinic, Lesley Reynolds, says the so-called morning routine highlights our fascination with beauty routines and self-care.

“The quip that goes, ‘The uglier you go to bed, the more beautiful you wake up’ has gained popularity, highlighting the allure of waking up with glowing skin and perfect hair. By applying face masks, lip serums, heatless curls, mouth guards and eye masks, this trend promises a refreshed morning look with minimal effort.

Reynolds says this trend highlights our ongoing search for effective beauty tips and reflects current beauty innovations and self-care trends.

“However, while it may offer a time-saving beauty solution, the exhaustive routine can be excessive and potentially stressful to the skin and hair,” she adds.

“And it’s not clear yet how long that will last.”

Reynolds says that from an expert perspective, the ‘morning exfoliation’ trend may offer some skin benefits, but its effectiveness varies by product and skin type.

“Skin undergoes natural repair while you sleep, making it ideal for treatments,” she explains. “However, the effectiveness of these routines depends on consistency and proper product selection. Overuse or incorrect combinations can cause irritation or sensitivity.”

Reynolds says it’s important to use non-comedogenic products that are suitable for overnight use to prevent clogged pores and acne from forming.

“In short, the ‘morning glow’ trend takes advantage of natural repair processes during sleep to improve skin and hair health,” she continues. “With carefully selected products and a balanced approach, it can provide significant beauty benefits, but individuals should monitor their skin’s reactions and adjust their routines to avoid potential drawbacks.”

A woman removes a face mask as part of her 'morning clean' skincare routine. (Getty Images)

‘Morning flake’ skincare trend goes viral on TikTok. (Getty Images)

Using too many products at once can strain your skin, leading to congestion and breakouts, Reynolds says.

“The skin barrier has its limits, and overly active ingredients can cause irritation or sensitization, especially on sensitive skin,” she explains. “Incompatible ingredients can reduce effectiveness or cause adverse reactions.”

He gives the example that mixing retinol with strong acids can lead to dryness and irritation.

“Understanding ingredient interactions is important,” she continues. “Overuse of potent ingredients can compromise the skin’s barrier, increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and make skin more vulnerable to dryness, irritation, and infections.”

If you add mouth tape to your bedtime beauty routine, it comes with its own risks, including blocking your airflow, irritating the skin around your lips, and the worry of pain when removing the tape, especially for people with facial hair.

Medical experts warn that mouth taping is not for everyone and that you should consult your doctor before trying it.

Woman rocking the 'morning booth' beauty trend. (Getty Images)Woman rocking the 'morning booth' beauty trend. (Getty Images)

Some people also included face and mouth taping as part of their ‘morning moult’ routine. (Getty Images)

Select suitable products: “Look for non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic formulas with hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, and antioxidants,” Reynolds recommends.

Test new products with patch testing: Reynolds recommends doing a patch test on a small area (such as behind the ear) before using the product fully to check for side effects.

Layer products correctly: “Apply products from thinnest to thickest: cleanser, toner, serum, moisturizer, optional facial oil, and overnight mask,” Reynolds recommends.

Avoid overloading and ensure cleanliness: Reynolds suggests starting with a basic routine and gradually adding new products. “Keep your face and hands clean, and change pillowcases regularly to prevent bacteria buildup,” she adds.

Focus on hydration and barrier repair: “Use nightly specific products that support hydration and barrier repair, such as those containing ceramides, glycerin, and squalene,” Reynolds says. “Monitor your skin’s response and consult a dermatologist if necessary.”

Avoid strong acids: Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), such as glycolic and salicylic acids, can be too harsh for overnight use and can cause irritation and sensitivity, Reynolds says. “Retinoids should also be used with caution because they can lead to dryness and peeling,” she adds.

Skip alcohol-based products:“Toners and astringents that contain alcohol can be extremely drying and irritating when left on the skin overnight, and can strip the skin of its natural oils,” warns Reynolds.

Be careful with fragrances and essential oils: Synthetic fragrances and essential oils can cause irritation and allergic reactions. “Avoid long-term use,” Reynolds adds.

Avoid clay masks and physical exfoliators overnight: Clay masks can disrupt moisture balance and cause dryness, while physical exfoliators can lead to irritation and micro-tears if used too frequently, Reynolds says.

Limit high concentrations of active ingredients: High vitamin C levels and chemical peels should be used according to directions and not left on overnight to avoid irritation and damage. “Hydroquinone should be used short-term and under medical supervision,” Reynolds adds.

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