In a year when record-breaking temperatures and marine heatwaves threatened our already depleted seas, conservationists, supermarkets and even musicians including Icelandic singer Björk have spoken out about dwindling wild fish populations.
Oceana, a US-based NGO, reports that half of Britain’s largest wild fish populations, including North Sea cod, are either overfished or in a critical state; supermarkets criticize UK, Norway and EU for failing to reach agreement on sustainable mackerel fisheries; and another charity, the Blue Marine Foundation, are suing the UK government for “unlawfully wasting” fish populations by ignoring scientific advice on stocks shared with the EU and Norway.
The welfare of farmed fish has taken a hit, as has the influence of the fish farming industry. Naturalist and broadcaster Chris Packham has called for an end to the “catastrophic” growth of the Scottish salmon farming industry as the Guardian revealed farmed salmon mortality rates are at record levels. Most salmon bought from supermarkets in the UK is farm-raised.
Relating to: Chris Packham calls for halt to ‘catastrophic’ expansion of Scottish salmon farms
Earlier this month, an expert assessment of wild fish populations found that wild Atlantic salmon face a growing threat, with almost a quarter of them at risk of extinction.
So, which fish should we give up and what should we eat in 2024?
“Unsustainable seafood is one of the biggest threats to our seas,” says Charlotte Coombes, good fish guide manager at the Marine Conservation Society (MCS). In the last edition of the guide in October, only one in eight fish in the UK was given the highest “green” status and just 13% were deemed a sustainable choice.
Coombes says consumers need to ask “what, where and how”; which species, where and how it was caught. A simple start, he says, would be to replace the “big five” with other seafood.
Britons eat an average portion of fish a week, 80% of which comes from just five species. Cod and haddock, which form the basis of fish and chip dishes, are the most common choices, followed by salmon, tuna and prawns.
Coombes says a simple “swap” would ease the pressure on these handful of preferred favourites, reducing the demand that leads to unsustainable fishing and farming practices.
Swap shop – what to buy instead of the big five
1. Cod
One of the UK’s best-loved fish, cod is a coldwater species that is often caught from the wild. Populations are struggling as sea temperatures rise. MCS says UK shares are performing very poorly and should be avoided. The good news is that North Sea populations are starting to increase due to fishing restrictions, but the stock is not yet sustainable.
sustainable swap Certified with the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) blue tick, Hake is now a sustainable choice thanks to good management and environmental conditions, according to the MCS guide.
2. Haddock
Additionally, haddock, a chip shop favorite, is generally a sustainable, wild-caught fish. But some stocks are declining and whiting often swims in the same waters as cod, leading to whiting fisheries catching both species. Avoid fish less than 30cm in length and buying fresh fish during the March and April breeding season, says MCS.
best choice Haddock or MSC certified from the North Sea, Scotland, Iceland or Norway.
sustainable exchange Plaice on the North Sea, where the population is growing.
3. Salmon
Wild Atlantic salmon populations have declined by 23% worldwide and have disappeared from many rivers in the UK. The species has been affected by widespread habitat loss, global warming and dams. Breeding with illegally farmed salmon also threatens many wild populations. Sea lice from salmon farms are also a problem. Wild Atlantic salmon are now classified as “near threatened” and should be avoided, according to the fishing guide.
The best choice Pacific wild salmon (pink, red, or keta) from Alaska. MCS says it is certified organic or salmon with a green checkmark from the Aquaculture Stewardship Council.
sustainable swap MCS says rainbow trout farmed from UK ponds is a good alternative.
4. Tuna
This top predator can grow up to three meters in length. There are many different species and MCS recommends checking out the Good Fish Guide to see which are more sustainable. Avoid Pacific and Southern bluefin tuna, Indian Ocean yellowfin, and tuna caught by gill nets or drift nets.
The best choice Skipper or albacore tuna caught by pole and rod or trawls, artificial baits on barbless lines with minimal bycatch.
sustainable exchange Sardines from southwest England.
5. Shrimp
Sourced from all over the world, shrimp can be sustainable depending on the species and where and how they are caught.
The best choice Wild cold-water shrimp from the northeastern Arctic. Farmed shrimp labeled organic or MSC or ASC according to the fish guide. Scottish crayfish caught by creel.
Avoid Non-certified farmed king and tiger prawns from Vietnam, Indonesia or India.
sustainable exchange Mussels: Fish guide says string-farmed mussels in the UK are among the ocean-friendly seafood.