“I have 15,000 strawberry plants but I would really like a few more,” said Mr Al Mutuwaiee, grinning from under his Armani baseball cap. But he explained that he wasn’t hoping for any variety: He wanted the “white jewel” strawberry, the world’s most expensive and praised for its shiny but completely colorless flesh. But these are only grown in Japan, “and the export rules… are strict,” he sighed, opening the door to his greenhouse. “I’m trying, but I haven’t succeeded yet. But,” he beamed, “I have hope! Nothing is impossible in Dubai.”
With his immaculate kandura robes and designer headgear, Al Mutuwaiee does not look like an ordinary farmer; But still, this is no ordinary farm. A huge, shiny mango tree towers over the courtyard, providing welcome shade from the relentless sunlight, and rows of ruby-red strawberries lead to a grove of papaya bushes with leaves larger than dinner plates. Behind the trees, mountains loom in every direction, peaks as sharp as an electrocardiogram; It rises and hits the cloudless sky.
Yes, this is Dubai – but probably not as you know it. Hatta, home of Al Mutuwaiee’s small conglomerate, has no malls, no resorts, no 16-lane highway. The outer region of the Emirate of Dubai, the area is small (slightly larger than Jersey) and a two-hour drive from the city; It borders Oman to the south and other UAE emirates to the west and north. Yet its peaks can dwarf most skyscrapers, and Hatta is certainly a trendy property, thanks to ongoing AED1.3bn (£281m) investment in its tourism and infrastructure.
Located in the Al Hajar Mountain Range, it is traditionally a quiet and little-visited area. It’s full of lush palm plantations and family-run farms, majestic peaks and secluded campsites: natural pleasures that new developments will enhance, not destroy, according to the government. It’s easy to see why the position is so ripe for investment; At this altitude the air is always a few degrees cooler than in the city and there is also a fresh breeze. The signs call it “Dubai’s Highlands”.
Dubai’s adventure playground
The area’s first major project opened in 2018: Hatta Wadi Hub, an outdoor adventure hub whose offerings of zip-lining, mountain biking, guided hikes, axe-throwing, high ropes and more grow every year. Before reaching Hatta, the only people coming from the city were a few brave wild campers; I know because I was one of them. “We’re building a big shooting range now and dreaming up all kinds of new activities,” general manager David Charlton said during my last visit in February. He had a dream of someone creating his own ultimate playground; I guess so, given Hatta’s extraordinary generosity.
Departing from the city of Dubai, Hatta is an easy drive east on a smooth desert highway. The world’s tallest building quickly shrinks in your rearview mirror: it’s a surreal journey, the road lined with rusty red sand dunes and lurching camels. But just when you think you’ve left civilization behind, the Hatta sign appears: huge Hollywood-style letters high in the hills announcing your location in bold letters. In fact, it’s even bigger than the Los Angeles landmark; This is Dubai after all.
At the Honey Bee Discovery Centre, you can even don beekeeping gear to practice with real working hives and taste honey made from the pollen of the ghaf, the UAE’s national tree. Soon, Al Mutuwaiee’s Hatta Strawberry Farm will offer farm tours and a cafe selling homemade jams, as well as picking your own organic fruit. There are endless hiking trails on the peaks, ancient tribal forts to explore, and almost 40 kilometers of graded bike paths.
Another newbie is Hatta Kayak, the water sports base at Hatta Dam. This vast, serene reservoir is surrounded by mountains and its water sparkles like diamonds in abundant sunlight. It is truly fascinating to explore by kayak, pedalo or tour boat, accompanied only by a few graceful gray cormorants.
A perfect camp
You might think that a tent would not be very attractive in this country of five-star hotels, but the demand for camping sites in the region is high; No wonder, because they are extremely beautiful. Mountain views, secluded pitches, excellent facilities: this is not a rainy Dorset weekend. Bathrooms and shower blocks are spotless, and trendy food trucks sell decent coffee, hot dinners and Arabic specialties such as luqaimat dumplings with sweet syrup.
“I couldn’t believe my eyes on my first visit,” said Rania Jabar, a Canadian who has lived in Dubai for 16 years, as she watched her children climb Wadi Hub’s climbing wall. “There was a whole new side to Dubai that we didn’t even know existed! Three years later we come again and again. “My kids have never been camping before, but they love it here.”
If canvas isn’t your thing, Hatta’s amazing selection includes everything from geodesic domes to stylish caravans and tiny cabins tucked away in the hills. The accommodation is hotel quality, but they are self-contained and secluded and prices start from £80 per night. I stayed at Damani Lodges; their tiny cabins had Dubai-style accoutrements (king-size bed, strong Wi-Fi, golf carts to get around) and panoramic valley views from the terrace.
Mine also had a private barbecue area with charcoal – or an offer to grill dinner for me and have it delivered to the lodge. You can guess which option I chose; An unhurried feast of lamb meatballs and mezze, mocked under a sherbet-pink sunset.
In fact, it is far from complete: numerous new attractions are planned in the coming years, including a mountain cable car, a freshwater beach and 120 kilometers of cycling trails. Still, there’s a lot to enjoy here Right now, a few days away from the city. The finishing touches are currently being put on a “waterfall oasis” which includes restaurants, cafes and playgrounds and is reported to cost AED46m (£10m). “New campsites, lakes, water sports, hotels; all this is happening,” Al Mutuwaiee told me, proud of his country’s burning ambition.
Perhaps that’s the real key to Hatta’s appeal: awe-inspiring scenery and outdoor fun that reflect Dubai’s distinctive optimism. Because the not-so-humble farmer is right; The “impossible” disappears into the wind in this surreal, magnificent wilderness.
Fundamentals
Damani Lodges (00 971 4 820 5500; Visithatta.com) has cabins from £119 per night, excluding breakfast. Emirates (0344 800 2777; emirates.com) flies direct to Dubai from seven UK airports for £535 return.
Hatta Kayak (00 971 56 616 2111; hatakayak.com) rents kayaks from £13; Wadi Hub activities are priced around £10.80 per adult. Camping conditions are most suitable between October and March. For more information, see Visithatta.com and Visitdubai.com.
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